Embroidery Articles - Pulled Thread

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Beth Gardner active in Santa Clara Valley and Gavilan Hills chapters, wrote a series of columns on embroidery for her chapter newsletters.  The 2002 series highlighted embroidery done with a sharp needle; 2003 features a world tour of ethnic embroidery. She has graciously made the columns available for all Region members to enjoy.  All articles are copyrighted by Beth and used by permission.  Contact for questions or reprint permission. 

The Sharp Needle
© 2002

Welcome to the first installment of The Sharp Needle.  When I was young girl, the little needlework that I did with my grandmother was done with a sharp needle -- now it seems all my needlework is on canvas and linen and is stitched with a blunt needle.  I thought I’d explore some of embroidery’s roots and pass a little of what I learn along to you.  But since this is my column, I’m going to break my first rule and write about Pulled Thread, a counted thread technique done with a blunt needle!

What is Pulled Thread Embroidery?

Pulled Thread, also known as Drawn Fabric embroidery (and not to be confused with Drawn Thread work), is a form of whitework.  Whitework is a general term for monochromatic embroidery in which the ground fabric and thread are the same color; traditionally both were white or cream colored.  The emphasis of whitework is on the contrast of texture created by the stitches on the ground fabric.  In Pulled Thread embroidery this contrast of texture is achieved by stitching the patterns with a very tight tension. The tight tension distorts the ground fabric so that the resulting lacy, open areas create the design.  The stitches themselves are often not very attractive but their effect on the ground fabric creates lovely patterns.

Some History (perhaps History)

Pulled Thread is considered to have originated in the 17th century and early samplers of the period contain bands of Pulled Thread work.  In the 18th century, Pulled Thread became an important fashion technique and was called ‘fabric embroidered lace’.  The authentic (and new to the period) lace from Germany, France and the Low Countries was too expensive for anyone other than the very rich, so lacy embroidery was done on fine linen handkerchiefs, collars, cuffs and petticoats to create an imitation lace.  This lacy embroidery allowed the lower classes to embellish their clothing in much the same way the upper classes did.  Lacy embroidery of the 18th century has evolved to become the present day Pulled Thread Embroidery.

Fabric and Threads

Pulled Thread work is executed on evenweave fabric - generally linen but often on canvas and Congress cloth.  The count of the linen is generally 28 to 40 threads per inch.  Thread of the same weight as the thread of the fabric produces the best results since it is the lacy appearance and not the stitches that are important in this work.  Threads used are typically Cordonnet or Perle cotton.  Some people unravel threads from their linen ground fabric and stitch with these, creating a beautiful effect.

Copyright © 2002 by , used by permission.

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