Embroidery
Articles - Pulled Thread
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| Beth Gardner active in Santa Clara Valley
and Gavilan Hills chapters, wrote a series of columns on embroidery
for her chapter newsletters. The 2002 series highlighted
embroidery done with a sharp needle; 2003 features a world
tour of ethnic embroidery. She has graciously made the columns
available for all Region members to enjoy. All articles
are copyrighted by Beth and used by permission. Contact
for
questions or reprint permission. |
The Sharp Needle
© 2002
Welcome to the first installment of The Sharp Needle. When
I was young girl, the little needlework that I did with my grandmother
was done with a sharp needle -- now it seems all my needlework
is on canvas and linen and is stitched with a blunt needle. I
thought I’d explore some of embroidery’s roots and
pass a little of what I learn along to you. But since this
is my column, I’m going to break my first rule and write
about Pulled Thread, a counted thread technique done with a blunt
needle!
What is Pulled Thread Embroidery?
Pulled Thread, also known as Drawn Fabric embroidery
(and not to be confused with Drawn Thread work), is a form of whitework. Whitework
is a general term for monochromatic embroidery in which the ground
fabric and thread are the same color; traditionally both were white
or cream colored. The emphasis of whitework is on the contrast
of texture created by the stitches on the ground fabric. In
Pulled Thread embroidery this contrast of texture is achieved by
stitching the patterns with a very tight tension. The tight tension
distorts the ground fabric so that the resulting lacy, open areas
create the design. The stitches themselves are often not
very attractive but their effect on the ground fabric creates lovely
patterns.
Some History (perhaps History)
Pulled Thread is considered to have originated in the 17th century
and early samplers of the period contain bands of Pulled Thread
work.
In the 18th century, Pulled Thread became an important fashion
technique and was called ‘fabric embroidered lace’. The
authentic (and new to the period) lace from Germany, France and
the Low Countries was too expensive for anyone other than the very
rich, so lacy embroidery was done on fine linen handkerchiefs,
collars, cuffs and petticoats to create an imitation lace. This
lacy embroidery allowed the lower classes to embellish their clothing
in much the same way the upper classes did. Lacy embroidery
of the 18th century has evolved to become the present day Pulled
Thread Embroidery.
Fabric and Threads
Pulled Thread work is executed on evenweave fabric - generally
linen but often on canvas and Congress cloth. The count of
the linen is generally 28 to 40 threads per inch. Thread
of the same weight as the thread of the fabric produces the best
results since it is the lacy appearance and not the stitches that
are important in this work. Threads used are typically Cordonnet
or Perle cotton.
Some people unravel threads from their linen ground fabric and
stitch with these, creating a beautiful effect.
Copyright © 2002 by
, used by permission.
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