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Embroidery Articles - Sashiko and Kogin TechniqueReturn to Embroidery Articles Index
The Traveling Thread This month we travel to Japan to investigate Sashiko and Kogin embroidery. I have been fascinated by the Sashiko technique (pronounced sahsh-ko) ever since Grace Townsend, a former Santa Clara Valley EGA member, taught us a small program on Sashiko. Sashiko is a classic Japanese quilting technique that is traditionally done with white thread on an indigo ground. As with much embroidery from around the world, most sashiko patterns are representations of motifs found in nature and are very stylized patterns of plants (particularly flowers and pine trees), animals, and natural phenomenon such as clouds and waves. Sashiko is a very old form of hand sewing using a simple running stitch sewn in repeating or interlocking patterns, with 5-8 evenly spaced stitches to the inch. Kogin (pronounced ko-geen) embroidery is a variation of sashiko in which the stitches are uneven in length and are only stitched horizontally, or along the weft of the ground fabric. The Kogin designs are usually diamond shaped geometric patterns whereas sashiko can incorporate beautiful swirls into its patterns. HistoryIt is thought that the Japanese made contact with China between 300BC and 300AD and that sashiko patterns were derived from Chinese designs. More interestingly, at least to me that is, is that many of these patterns are not native to China, but were brought to China via the famous ‘Silk Road’ from Persia, India or Greece. The oldest surviving sashiko design is found on a Buddhist robe from about 750AD. Sashiko quilting began under very humble circumstances. During the Edo dynasty, sumptuary laws were enacted that prohibited peasants from owning cotton clothing because cotton was a rare commodity reserved only for the nobles. Peasant clothing was made from homespun fabric woven from native fibrous plants such as wisteria and hemp and dyed with indigo to strengthen the fibers. Unfortunately, these homespun fabrics gave little protection against the bad weather or cold. At some point, some creative sewer discovered that garments became much warmer and functional if several layers of fabric were stitched together. The seamstress developed a technique called ‘little running stabs’ or darning, to patch worn clothing. New patches were layered upon older patches and thus Japanese quilted fabric was born. When cotton fabric was eventually available to peasants, winter clothing was created by stitching together multiple layers of clothing with sashiko patterns. By the 18th and 19th centuries, sashiko quilting began to be used for decorative purposes and was no longer exclusively utilitarian. As in many other cultures, the value of a young woman as a bride was predicated upon her sashiko stitching expertise. Sashiko and Kogin TechniqueSashiko patterns are typically traced onto the right side of the ground fabric and then stitched with 5 – 8 small, even stitches per inch along the pattern lines. Traditional sashiko patterns are done with white thread on indigo ground fabric but modern sashiko is now done with multi-colored thread on various types of ground, including silk. Kogin embroidery is done on evenweave fabric and is stitched as an over/under darning pattern. In order to create the pattern, the horizontal stitches vary in length. Traditional Kogin embroidery was also done with white thread on indigo ground but modern Kogin embroidery can be done with any thread you choose on any ground you choose. The needlepoint.about.com archives of Janet Perry have Kogin darning patterns. I suggest a Perle cotton # 8 thread. Try using an overdye for a different effect. Resources
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